Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom

Despite his reluctance, Ugyen agrees to take the teaching post in Lunana after his grandmother urges him to complete the assignment. He packs his belongings and says goodbye to the city, setting out on a long journey toward the remote village. The decision marks the start of a life far from his familiar comforts.

Ugyen enlists Michen, the village guide, and they begin a grueling six day ascent to Lunana. The path climbs through rugged terrain at high altitude, testing his resolve and stamina. The landscape grows more isolated as they push toward the mountain village.

The villagers greet him with warmth, but Ugyen is stunned by the scarce conditions and considers turning back. Asha explains that the mules need rest and that a return trip could be possible in a few days. The sense of hardship clashes with the villagers hospitality.

Pem Zam awakens him to see eager children waiting in the classroom and reminding him that their future depends on his teaching. He feels overwhelmed but decides to stay for the remainder of the year. The sense of duty begins to outweigh his initial reluctance.

With no blackboard, Ugyen improvises by writing on the wall with charcoal, making do with whatever they have. Michen later constructs a makeshift blackboard, enabling more structured lessons. The improvisation marks the start of his practical approach to teaching in the village.

Ugyen slowly improves the classroom and even sacrifices scarce paper to cover the windows so the children can write. Asha remarks that the teacher may have been a yak in a past life, reflecting the village humor and resilience. The children respond with growing curiosity and affection.

The students connect with his songs and lessons in math, English, and Dzongkha, and his popularity grows. They celebrate his presence but fear the day he must leave when winter arrives. His teaching brings light to the village in a difficult season.

Ugyen meets Saldon, who sings Yak Lebi Lhadar as offerings to the mountain spirits. They meet daily atop a hillside, and he slowly learns the song he comes to love. The hymn connects him to local traditions and the land surrounding Lunana.

Saldon gifts Ugyen a yak named Norbu, whose dung is used to start fires. Because of the cold, Norbu stays in the classroom and becomes part of the lessons, a living presence that shapes daily life. The animal's presence deepens the bond between teacher and students.

As winter approaches, Asha urges Ugyen to return before the pass is blocked by snow. He reveals his plan to leave Bhutan for good, which unsettles the community. The tension between duty and longing intensifies as the season closes in.

The villagers bid a heartfelt goodbye to Ugyen. Pem Zam presents a letter from all the children, and Saldon offers a white scarf as a keepsake. Asha sings Yak Lebi Lhadar, and Ugyen reads the letters on the descent, pausing at a shrine to offer a blessing for safe passage and hope for return.

In Australia, Ugyen performs Western songs in a bar, but the audience pays him little mind. He stops in frustration, then begins Yak Lebi Lhadar, moving the crowd and signaling a pull toward his roots as the credits begin. The ending juxtaposes his new life with the world he left behind.