Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom

Ugyen, portrayed by Sherab Dorji, is at a crossroads in his life after completing four out of his five obligatory years of government teacher training. Lacking passion for the teaching profession and aspiring instead to pursue a career in singing down under in Australia, he is reluctant to take on a new assignment at the most remote school in the world, located in the isolated village of Lunana. His determination to quit is dampened by the heartfelt pleas of his grandmother, who urges him to honor his teaching commitment. Thus, he reluctantly departs the bustling city for the serenity of the mountains.

Accompanied by Michen, played by Ugyen Norbu Lhendup, a villager guide he meets in Gasa—elevation 2800 meters and a population of just 448—Ugyen begins the arduous eight-day trek to Lunana. Throughout this challenging journey, he is assisted by Michen and his assistant Singye, portrayed by Tshering Dorji. Michen proves to be a dependable companion, encouraging Ugyen to push on even when fatigue sets in. As they ascend to Koina, where the population is merely three and the altitude reaches 3100 meters, Ugyen’s discomfort intensifies with leaking shoes, leading to painful sores on his feet. Michen offers home remedies to alleviate his woes, but when Ugyen’s phone battery dies, he finds himself cut off from the world.

Upon reaching Lunana, Ugyen is met with the villagers’ warm welcome—a 56-strong community that traverses two hours just to greet him. Yet, he is taken aback by the village’s poor living conditions, lacking electricity, running water, and even a toilet. Overwhelmed and regretting his decision, he requests to return. But Michen informs him that the mules require rest, and he must stay a few days longer. The next morning, Ugyen is awakened by Pem Zam, the enthusiastic class captain, who tells him the eager students are waiting for his arrival. Realizing he can inspire these children who hold teachers in high regard, Ugyen decides to stay and fulfill his role for the year.

As Ugyen reconnects with the village, he learns from Pem Zam details of the subjects previously taught and discovers the teaching materials stored away in his room. Michen introduces him around, including to Pem Zam’s inebriated father and a grandmother seeking education for her granddaughter, highlighting the pressing need for a teacher. Ugyen begins to adapt, crafting a makeshift classroom using a wall for a blackboard until Michen constructs a more permanent solution. He receives supplies from his friend Tandin through Michen, including copies and a guitar, soon finding joy in teaching various subjects and engaging the children with music.

His connection deepens with the villagers, especially with Saldon, who teaches him a traditional song, Yak Lebi Lhadar, that she sings daily in homage to their village. As their bond grows, Saldon gifts Ugyen a yak named Norbu, to ease his struggles with collecting dung for warmth. Ugyen learns more about village life over dinner with Asha, the village leader, revealing layers of familial connections and loss.

As winter approaches, Asha advises Ugyen to depart before the passes become treacherous. Although he promises to return in spring, Ugyen must break the news to Saldon and the children, who express their deep appreciation for his kindness and teaching. Their touching farewells leave a mark on Ugyen, turning his heart towards the village.

On his way down the mountain, Ugyen reflects upon the meaningful connections he formed, leaving an offering at a shrine for safe travels and hoping to eventually return. Reaching Australia, he faces an initial lack of attention in a bar where he performs. Frustrated but resilient, he shifts to singing Yak Lebi Lhadar, captivating his audience and rekindling his spirits. This marks a poignant full circle in his transformative journey, revealing how much his experience in Lunana shaped his identity and aspirations.

Last Updated: November 08, 2024 at 02:55