In Ticlaw, a small Florida tourist town, the scene is set by William Devane as Kirby T. Calo, the town’s charismatic mayor and preacher who also runs a hotel and a tiny wildlife safari park. The main draw is a water-skiing elephant named Bubbles, a quirky highlight that keeps visitors lingering. When the state highway commission decides to build a freeway adjacent to the town, Calo tries to grease the wheels with a $10,000 bribe to secure an off-ramp. The payoff never comes, and in response, the townspeople literally paint the town pink to lure travelers in, turning the struggle for infrastructure into a vibrant, eye-catching spectacle.
Across the country, a mosaic of travelers heads toward Florida, and their journeys gradually weave into Ticlaw’s story. Eugene, George Dzundza a weary bank robber from New York, and Osvaldo, Joe Grifasi his partner, pair up with a cocaine-dealing hitchhiker they pick up along the way. They cross paths with Duane Hansen, Beau Bridges a Chicago copy machine repairman who dreams of writing children’s books, who in turn encounters Carmen Odessa Shelby, Beverly D'Angelo a waitress carrying her deceased mother’s ashes toward Florida. Their bundle of baggage becomes a moving snapshot of people searching for something—sometimes redemption, sometimes escape—on the long drive south.
Meanwhile, Snapper Kramer, Howard Hesseman, a dentist, travels with his dysfunctional family in a cross-country RV, bringing a blend of humor and tension to the road. Carol, Jessica Tandy a woman with a drinking problem, and her patient husband Sherm, Hume Cronyn, head toward retirement in Florida, their relationship tested and tempered by shared history. The fabric of Ticlaw is further enriched by two nuns, Sister Mary Clarise, Geraldine Page, and Sister Mary Magdalene, Deborah Rush, whose presence adds a quiet spiritual thread to the evolving tapestry.
T.J. Tupus, Paul Jabara, a would-be country songwriter, hauls a playful rhino and other wild animals toward Ticlaw, embodying the story’s sense of whimsy and ambition. Intersecting with these narratives are more fleeting figures—each with their own quirks and motives—who collectively illustrate a town that thrives on spectacle even as it negotiates basic aspirations and personal frailties. The result is a densely woven, character-driven portrait of travel, chance encounters, and community, all converging in a place that turns an ordinary highway town into a magnet for oddities and ordinary people chasing a better view of life.
As these parallel roads gradually converge, the film keeps a steady, observational rhythm, balancing humor with humanity. The pink-painted welcome, the bustling hotel, the safari park, and the ever-present elephant become symbols of Ticlaw’s charm and stubborn optimism. The ensemble cast, anchored by Calo’s larger-than-life leadership and the various travelers’ distinct arcs, paints a picture of a town that may be small, but is brimming with stories, dreams, and a willingness to embrace the unexpected. In the end, Ticlaw stands as a snapshot of American road-trip life: imperfect, affectionate, and endlessly curious about what’s just over the next bend.
