Welcome to the Sticks

In Salon-de-Provence, Philippe Abrams schemes to transfer to a coastal office in Sanary-sur-Mer to please his wife. He decides to pretend he is disabled to boost his chances, misjudging how the system will treat his lie. The deception is ultimately discovered by management, setting off a dramatic consequence.

The management uncovers Philippe's ruse and punishes him by sending him to Bergues, a northern town seen as a backwater. The exile strips him from his southern life and throws him into a chilly, unfamiliar culture. He must learn to survive in a place far from what he knows.

Philippe spends his first night in Bergues at the home of Antoine, a coworker who becomes a temporary roommate. He immediately dislikes Antoine due to brash behavior and a misread about his sexuality from crossdressing photos. Over time, Philippe learns that Antoine has a carnival past and a crush on Annabelle, which begins to soften their initial tension.

Philippe discovers Antoine's carnival past and that he harbors feelings for Annabelle. This revelation shifts their relationship from rivals to friends as they bond over shared humor and vulnerability. The two men begin to support each other in the unfamiliar north.

Slowly Bergues stops feeling like a punishment and starts feeling like a home. Philippe samples the pungent Maroilles cheese, chats with locals while delivering mail, and accepts casual invitations for drinks. He begins to see warmth and humor in the town and its people.

Philippe becomes part of the town's daily life by playing the carillon at the bell tower and attending a local RC Lens match. Neighbors invite him to seaside outings and friendly gatherings, building a sense of belonging. His loneliness gives way to a growing community connection.

Julie travels north to lift Philippe's spirits and briefly joins the town’s social circle. Philippe confesses to his new friends that he had described Bergues as barbarian to his wife. The friends decide to help by acting as barbarians and even arrange for Julie to stay in a nearby mining village, pretending it's the main town.

After a difficult weekend, Julie chooses to relocate to Bergues to stand by Philippe. This decision marks a turning point as she begins to settle into the northern life she once dismissed. Philippe’s happiness deepens as he shares his new world with her.

A local reveals that the mining village Julie stayed in is not the actual Bergues, exposing the ruse. When Philippe finds Julie at his real Bergues home, he reveals the truth about the happiness and friendships he has found. Julie feels a mix of disappointment and realization about his contentment.

Though initially unsettled by the truth, Julie chooses to stay in the North to be with Philippe. She decides to move forward with him and support the life he has built among his new friends. Their relationship shifts from deception to a shared, hopeful partnership.

Antoine and Annabelle had dated but broke up due to Antoine's passive attitude toward his mother. Annabelle now has a new boyfriend, while Antoine nurses his feelings and clings to a possibility of a future with her. The strain highlights Antoine's need for personal growth.

Philippe encourages Antoine to stand up for himself, and he finally tells his mother that he loves Annabelle and plans to move with her. His mother reacts with unexpected happiness, having waited for him to assert himself. The moment marks a turning point in Antoine's character.

Antoine shows his newfound courage by proposing to Annabelle at the bell tower as Stevie Wonder's song fills the air. Annabelle accepts, and the couple begins planning a future together. The moment is celebratory and marks a moment of communal joy for the town.

Three years after settling in Bergues, Philippe receives a transfer to Porquerolles on the Mediterranean coast. He and his family prepare to move south, leaving behind the North they came to know. The change signals the end of this North-centered chapter of their lives.

As they prepare to say goodbye to Bergues, Philippe is moved to tears, vindicating the Ch'tis proverb that a visitor brays twice up north: on arrival and departure. The family carries memories of the warmth they found, even as they depart for the South. Their new life in Porquerolles begins with a bittersweet farewell to the town that reshaped them.