Jan, Herman Finkers, a veterinarian who has spent 35 years married to Gedda, Johanna ter Steege, and together they raise two children, finds a quiet life unsettled by his aging father-in-law’s stubborn dream. Arend, the 89-year-old patriarch, has long wished to walk on foot to Rüdesheim am Rhein to visit the resting place of Saint Hildegard of Bingen, a pilgrimage that never happened in his lifetime. When he finally gathers the courage and begins the journey with his donkey, fate intervenes in Bad Bentheim, where he collapses and dies, leaving Jan to confront the restless question of who really has the right to steer a family’s future.
Before Arend’s funeral, Jan observes how little influence his father-in-law truly had at home and how Gedda mirrors her mother in her relentless hold over daily life. Gedda’s decisive, sometimes exacting approach to family matters echoes throughout the household, shaping how Jan sees his own role and his sense of autonomy. In this climate of quiet discontent, a crisis emerges when a friend couple announces their separation, prompting Jan to probe Gedda about divorce. Gedda’s lighthearted quip—“we’ll never be able to get rid of each other”—belies a deeper resistance to change. To avoid confronting the issue directly, Jan, who once helped Gedda through a difficult period, dismisses divorce as a solution.
A pivotal moment arrives after Jan tends to a sick goat and confesses a peculiar desire: he decides to pretend he has Alzheimer’s disease so he can be admitted to a nursing home and finally be free from his wife’s control. The nursing home director sees through the ruse quickly, but after a week of placement among residents with dementia, the director grants him another week to reflect and decide before sending him back to Gedda. Jan then travels to Germany, where he intends to complete his father-in-law’s long-awaited pilgrimage, bringing along his two children to explain the plan and accompany him on the road.
As they make plans, Jan’s journey gains an unexpected public dimension when Ilse, his daughter, becomes entangled with a pathologically jealous boyfriend, Peter, Stef Assen. Peter’s pursuit of the trio reaches Gedda, threatening to derail the delicate balance Jan is seeking. Yet Jan’s message to Gedda is clear: he loves her deeply, but he also wants to reclaim ownership of his own life. Gedda, torn between affection and a ingrained pattern of control, struggles to embrace a new reality, and she insists she cannot change.
With his decision made, Jan takes up Arend’s journey once more, now accompanied by the donkey and a sense of narrative closure. He continues along the Rhine, savoring the freedom he sought, scattering Arend’s ashes at the chosen spots near the water and, at last, lighting a candle at Saint Hildegard’s shrine. Along the way, the journey becomes less about fulfilling a pilgrimage and more about reclaiming personal agency, honoring a father-in-law’s wish, and discovering what it means to define one’s own path within a relationship that has long been defined by care, duty, and habit.
