The film begins with a poignant glimpse into the childhood of Gabrielle Chanel, who along with her sister Adrienne is left at an orphanage in Aubazine by their father. Each Sunday, Gabrielle dreams of their father’s return, yet he never appears. Later reflections reveal that their mother's sorrowful marriage contributed to their abandonment after her death, prompting their father's departure to seek fortune in America soon after.
Years later, we find a young Gabrielle working as a seamstress in a local bar, performing as a cabaret singer by night. Together with her sister, they sing about a lost little dog named "Coco" at the Trocadéro in Paris, resisting the stigma of being mistaken for the bar's courtesans. Despite their efforts, both attract the attention of wealthy older men—Adrienne, a baron; and Gabrielle, an aristocrat named Balsan. The nickname "Coco" becomes synonymous with Gabrielle.
Determined to forge her own path, Gabrielle moves to Balsan's countryside estate, engaging in a romantic relationship with him while striving for her independence. She discovers a passion for horse riding, which inspires her to design revolutionary trousers for women. Within Balsan’s social circle, she befriends actress Emilienne, starting a career in designing hats and dresses, shunning the restrictive corsets and excessive adornments of the time.
Among the group is a younger, self-made English businessman named Arthur Capel, who captures Gabrielle's heart during a seaside escapade in Normandy. As Balsan grows jealous of their budding romance, he proposes marriage to Gabrielle in a bid to win her back, but she turns him down. In retaliation, he reveals that Capel is already engaged in England. Nevertheless, Gabrielle continues her affair with Capel, firmly stating her refusal to marry.
Capel recognizes Gabrielle's unique talent, affirming, > "There's no one else like you." Encouraged, she continues to develop a modern vision of women's fashion, representing freedom and self-determination instead of subservience. When she discovers that her bank financing relies on Capel's guarantees, she chooses to confront the bank herself, realizing her success requires independence from men.
Tragedy strikes when Capel dies in a car accident, leaving Gabrielle crushed yet resolute in her pursuit of self-reliance and her distinct style. The film concludes with Coco clad in one of her signature tailleurs, seated on a staircase, reflecting on the emergence of her fashion legacy as she observes models showcasing Coco Chanel's iconic creations through the decades. The title, "Coco avant Chanel," aptly encapsulates the beginning of her remarkable journey in the world of fashion.
