In 2006, as Bhutan prepares to hold its first democratic election, the government organizes a mock election as a training exercise meant to familiarize the people with the democratic process. The story is set in the quaint town of Ura, where a wise old lama takes a young monk, Tashi, under his wing and instructs him on the importance of preparation for the upcoming political upheaval. The lama specifically sends Tashi on a task to procure firearms—a seemingly odd but significant assignment during this period of change.
Meanwhile, an American gun collector named Ron Coleman arrives in Bhutan with the goal of acquiring an antique rifle. He is accompanied by Benji, a local guide who helps him navigate the unfamiliar terrain. Their meeting with an elderly man in Ura, who owns the coveted rifle, leads to a deal where Ron intends to buy the antique firearm. The story takes an intriguing turn when, as part of the transaction, Ron needs to withdraw cash from a local bank, but Tashi unexpectedly shows up, and the young monk surprises everyone by gifting the gun to him instead of selling it.
This act sparks a series of pursuits and negotiations. Ron and Benji are determined to reclaim the gun and attempt to convince Tashi to sell it back to them. However, Tashi stays firm, valuing the weapon's significance beyond mere possession. Eventually, Tashi agrees to exchange the gun for two AK-47s, which Ron arranges to have smuggled into Bhutan from India. Meanwhile, the local police, aware of Ron's interest in guns, begin questioning him, adding tension to the unfolding events.
Another subplot involves the married couple, Tshomo and Choephel, whose relationship becomes strained over political allegiances. Choephel, loyal to a particular candidate, faces criticism from Tshomo and her mother, which causes friction and highlights the social divisions during this period of transition. Additionally, their daughter Yuphel experiences her own struggles when she is given a simple eraser by an election official, symbolizing her innocence and the child's experience of democratic education amidst adult conflicts.
As the story develops, the lama begins a ceremony to commemorate the construction of a new stupa—a sacred Buddhist monument—using the antique gun as a symbolic element. It is revealed that the lama’s intention was to use the gun, which he regards as a symbol of evil, to bury in the foundation of the stupa, symbolizing the destruction of evil and the hopes for a peaceful future. The ceremony underscores the cultural and spiritual significance of the community’s journey through political change.
The police arrive at this ceremony, attempting to detain Ron, but Benji intervenes, claiming that Ron is donating the AK-47s for the ceremony’s use. Their story convinces the authorities to allow the event to proceed, and Tashi supports this narrative, emphasizing the importance of the ceremony in community healing and transformation.
In a humorous and symbolic gesture, the lama expresses his gratitude with a large phallus, which he gives to Tashi—a traditional offering symbolizing fertility and protection. The film thus presents a complex mixture of cultural traditions, political transitions, and personal convictions, all woven together in a story of a small town on the brink of profound change. The narrative captures the tension, humor, and hope embedded in Bhutan’s unique journey toward democracy and modernization, highlighting how old beliefs and new ideas often coexist in unexpected ways.
